Temple Run 2023

Day 1:

The adventure began at the crack of dawn in the metropolis of Bangalore. Our destination? The ancient city of Madurai, a mere 440 kilometers away. We kicked off our day with a pit stop at the Sai Sangeet eatery, 140 kilometers down the road. The roads were surprisingly cooperative, and traffic gradually faded into obscurity as we left Krishnagiri and Salem in our rearview mirror.

After a gruelling 7.5-hour drive, we finally rolled into Madurai, where hunger beckoned. Our lunch venue was Sree Sabarees, located in the heart of the old town, just a stone's throw away from the main temple. Be warned, parking in these parts is a bit of a puzzle.

We recuperated for a few hours at the JC Residency, our chosen pit stop. Our enthusiasm for exploration took us to the Subramanya temple in Thiruparankundram, leaving tyre tracks over the ancient (and busy) streets of Madurai. Dinner beckoned at the Murugan Idly, a culinary marvel where parking is akin to the quest for the Holy Grail (though you might find it at the Pothy’s shop opposite to the restaurant).

Day 2:

At 5:30 AM, we found ourselves standing at the hallowed gates of the Meenakshi Amman Temple. No phones are allowed inside; this temple doesn't mess around when it comes to ancient traditions (most of the temples in Tamilnadu have banned cameras and phones). Our pursuit of divine blessings (both Meenakshi Amman and Sundareshwar temples) in the general queue proved to be a surprisingly swift. Breakfast fortified our spirits for the journey to Rameshwaram, a mere 180 kilometres away. The roads, a traveller’s dream, serenaded us throughout, with a four-lane highway leading us all the way to Ramanathapuram (its two-lane from here).

On the advice of a humble tea stall owner, we veered off the beaten path to explore the ancient Shiva temple of Uthirakosamangai (near Ramanathapuram), one of the oldest in the world.

Our arrival in Rameshwaram coincided with the call for lunch, and we set our sights on the town. Along the way, Ariyaman beach and the awe-inspiring Pamban bridge are worth enjoying. A word of caution, though: halting on the bridge can cost you a pretty penny in fines.

Our sanctuary for the night was the Ashoka hotel, a mere 200 meters from the Ramanathaswamy temple. Modesty was its charm, but ample parking space warmed our hearts. The day's pièce de résistance was a rendezvous with Dhanushkodi, a mere 20 kilometres down the road. The last kilometre proved to be a traffic-laden tangle, but the sights were worth it. A lighthouse, the remnants of a village scarred by a 1960s cyclone, and the enchanting embrace of two oceans (Bay of Bengal and Indian Ocean) marked this extraordinary odyssey.

We paid homage to the setting sun on the pristine shores, and as the horizon swallowed the day, we marvelled at the beauty of our existence.

A quick refresh and we ventured to the Ramanathaswamy temple, one of the sacred Char Dham pilgrimage centres. A divine encounter, an exquisite Palliyarai puja, and a humble dinner at the Murugan mess near the temple completed this day of spiritual exploration.

Day 3:

Daybreak led us back to the temple at 7 AM, and our previous evening's decision to seek darshan had been nothing short of genius. The queues had swelled to unfathomable lengths, with an estimated wait time of 2-3 hours. Still, we seized the opportunity to explore the temple complex in detail, uncovering the hidden gems, including the samadhi of Patanjali Rishi.

By 9 AM, we set our course for Thanjavur, a 250-kilometer journey via the serene East Coast Road, devoid of tolls and, thankfully, traffic. We did visit Shri APJ Kalam's house (a kilometre from the temple) and paid homage to his inspiring life before leaving Rameshwaram. En route, we witnessed the intriguing world of salt farming and paid a visit to the mangroves of Kaarankadu, where we embarked on a midday kayaking adventure.

As our stomachs rumbled, we were met with a lack of vegetarian dining options along this route. Thus, we settled for some sandwiches from a local bakery in Thondi. The city of Thanjavur greeted us at 5 PM, and we checked into the Sangam Hotel. After freshening up, we embarked on a short journey (2kms from the hotel) to the iconic Brihadeeshwara temple. The temple complex was alive with the grandeur of Navarathri festivities and the birth anniversary celebrations of Raja Raja Chola.

We spent 3 hours immersed in history and culture before savoring a delightful dinner at Ariya Bhavan, one of the town's oldest culinary treasures.

Day 4:

The fourth day commenced at the stroke of 6 AM, armed with the camera to capture the Brihadeeshwara temple in the golden hour. Photography was permitted here, save for the interiors.

Our journey continued to Kumbakonam after a hearty breakfast, with a pit stop in Papanasam to explore the Palaivananathar Temple.

This district is teeming with temples, more per square kilometer than anywhere else on Earth. Cruising through this lush and fertile district, you'll find yourself immersed in a sea of vibrant green paddy fields, a vision so captivating you'll yearn for more at every turn of the wheel.

By 11:30 AM, we reached the Airawathesahwar temple in Dharasuram, a UNESCO heritage site and a mesmerizing piece of architectural prowess.

This active temple is best appreciated with a knowledgeable guide. The location is also a treasure trove for silk and metal sculpture enthusiasts. A gastronomic delight awaited us in Kumbakonam town at Raya's restaurant, and we set course for Swami Thyagaraja's Samadhi and temple in Thiruvayaru, situated on the banks of the River Cauvery. This gem is often confused with the similarly named Shiva temple (a famous big temple complex) in Thiruvarur, but don't let the confusion sway you. We returned to Thanjavur by 5 PM, where we found solace for the evening.

Day 5:

We commenced our journey back to Bangalore by 8:30 AM, fuelled by a sumptuous breakfast at the Sangam Hotel. Our initial plan included a pit stop at the Rockfort temple in Trichy, but the allure of Srirangam Ranganathaswamy temple, the world's largest Hindu temple complex, led us there.

The towering 13-storey Rajagopuram acted as a beacon from miles away, further guided by the trusty Google Maps (it did misguide us a couple of times during the trip).

To our amazement, the crowds were minimal, and street vendors encouraged us to enter, promising a darshan in less than an hour—a rare feat for this sprawling temple. We returned to our chariot after the darshan, setting our sights on Bangalore, a journey filled with Dusshera holiday returnees, making the roads less forgiving. By 7:30 PM, we were back in Bangalore, having traversed 1,445 kilometres, explored 9 temples, and visited 6 towns, all in the span of 5 extraordinary days.